Marqat el babouch (Tunisian spiced snail stew)

Method

1. 1

   Clean the snails thoroughly by washing them several times in salted water with a little vinegar to remove the slime and dirt, then soak them for several hours or a whole day, changing the water often, until completely clean.

2. 2

   In a large pot, heat the olive oil and sauté the chopped onion until soft, then add the crushed garlic, harissa, cumin, coriander and ground cinnamon and stir for 1 minute until the spices are fragrant.

3. 3

   Add the snails to the pot and stir them with the spices for a few minutes, then cover with plenty of water and add the bay leaves, cinnamon stick and salt.

4. 4

   Bring to the boil over medium heat, then lower the heat and cook slowly for 1 to 2 hours, until the snails are tender and the spicy broth is rich in body and flavour.

5. 5

   Serve the marqat el babouch piping hot in glasses or small bowls, with toothpicks for picking out the snail meat between sips of the fiery broth. This popular dish is one of the oldest winter sights in the streets of Tunis, where the “babbacha” carts line the narrow lanes and gather around the old medina souk, drawing passers-by on cold nights in search of the warmth of a glass of this boldly flavoured broth.